We popped into the "soft opening" of City Winery last night not knowing what to expect. Eater and Grub Street had written it up, there were a bunch of good wine deals and there is a big PR machine behind it. What we found, was a bit of a surprise - a cavernous space (at most a third full around 8:30pm) and a big stage with a piano. There are cool looking barrels and bottles-as-decor, too. Granted it was the day before New Year's Eve and the location, two blocks north of the Holland Tunnel, is challenging, but we expected a much bigger turnout of oenophiles.The first thing that strikes you about City Winery is the sheer size of the place. All blond wood, we can only imagine the acoustics when it is full. The main floor is the restaurant/bar/performance space with a small private room downstairs. Designed for maximum sightlines in relation to the stage, this unfortunately means that when there is no performance, your eyes are drawn to the emptiness of the stage. And with a room that large, you have to wonder how they will fill it when there are no performances.
The opening night was low key and all about the wines. And the deals were impressive: $5 Henriot champagne, $20 for a 1970 Francesco Rinaldi Barolo, $15 Lopez de Heredia 1987 Rioja, $10 Olga Riffaut's 1989 Chinon - all well worth the price, even though there was significant bottle variation. The glass pours were generous and tastes were provided as well. This was easily the best place to taste old vintages in New York last night - how often does one get a chance to taste 20 and 30 year old wines by the glass? And at these prices?!
A quick perusal of the website
reveals a menu heavy on flatbreads and small plates, but nothing off it
was available last night. Instead they offered a cheese plate and a
selection of charcuterie, both from "partner" Murray's Cheese, which will also
be conducting cheese classes in the space (check the website for the
schedule). The winelist is extensive based on a rough draft we
previewed, but still a work in progress. Only the Henriot remains by
the glass, at $22. That $5 for a full glass of bubbly was the
steal of the year.The concept is half-cool, half-bonkers in these economic times. Sure, plunk down a winery in the middle of Manhattan and sell $5,000 barrels to people (grapes are extra) so they can make "private label" wines. It's hard to tell whether the performance component was part of the business plan from the beginning or a more recent addition (call us crazy but we don't instantly think "live music" when we picture "winery") but it's a lot of space to fill.
We have to hand it to the folks behind City Winery for taking a leap with the big idea but the timing might not be the most auspicious. They have smartly designed programs such as barrel ownership and "Vinofile" membership for $50 that bring in revenue up front. But since the space is so large and food seemingly not distinctive enough for diners, the question becomes will they be able to make it on the basis of concerts - Joan Osbourne tonight, upcoming acts include Suzanne Vega and Jill Sobule - and winemaking classes for $625-750?
City Winery
155 Varick Street
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