Yesterday we were perusing Chamber's Street Wines' January newsletter when we noticed in their list of sales and "endangered" wines that most were natural or organic. While most people are quite familiar with the term organic - for wine the grapes and means of production must be certified by some agency - the concept of "natural" is a lot less clear.We asked winemaker, wine tech expert and blogger Clark Smith for his take on what turns out to be a controversial issue in the wine world.
Smith's opinion on the difference is enlightening and also emblematic of what happens when we get bogged down in certification systems.
He writes, "Organic wine refers to a family of certified levels ('Organic,' 'Made from Organically Grown Grapes,' etc., etc.) which must conform to legal restrictions certified by sanctioned organizations such as the California Certified Organic Farmers. Organic wine itself is in disfavor because the ban on sulfites leads to many poor wines, whereas organically grown grapes usually make excellent wines, including biodynamic wines, which can use sulfites."
"Discontent with this very politicized and exclusionary system has led to the emergence of 'Natural Wine,' which reflects a longing for unmanipulated wines of terroir, has no legal standing and has so far resisted any attempts at definition. My article Natural Wine: Choosing Your Priorities delineates the contradictions inherent within this category."
Of course, you might say that "natural" is simply the new organic, a rather squishy category where we have to rely on the producers to provide information that they are doing something. This is similar to when we had varying standards applied to organic labeling of food, leading to some abuse and the federal government imposing its own set of rules.
Undoubtedly, Chambers Street Wines (148 Chambers Street) is one of the best shops in New York to explore organic, natural and biodynamic wines. They have a lengthy article of their own on their website entitled "What are Natural Wines?," which is worth a look. They have also taken great pains to learn about the producers and establish long term relationships with them. So if you're unsure how to approach "natural" wines but are intrigued, drop in and ask lots of questions. They'll be able to steer you to some very interesting wines.
He writes, "Organic wine refers to a family of certified levels ('Organic,' 'Made from Organically Grown Grapes,' etc., etc.) which must conform to legal restrictions certified by sanctioned organizations such as the California Certified Organic Farmers. Organic wine itself is in disfavor because the ban on sulfites leads to many poor wines, whereas organically grown grapes usually make excellent wines, including biodynamic wines, which can use sulfites."
"Discontent with this very politicized and exclusionary system has led to the emergence of 'Natural Wine,' which reflects a longing for unmanipulated wines of terroir, has no legal standing and has so far resisted any attempts at definition. My article Natural Wine: Choosing Your Priorities delineates the contradictions inherent within this category."
Of course, you might say that "natural" is simply the new organic, a rather squishy category where we have to rely on the producers to provide information that they are doing something. This is similar to when we had varying standards applied to organic labeling of food, leading to some abuse and the federal government imposing its own set of rules.
Undoubtedly, Chambers Street Wines (148 Chambers Street) is one of the best shops in New York to explore organic, natural and biodynamic wines. They have a lengthy article of their own on their website entitled "What are Natural Wines?," which is worth a look. They have also taken great pains to learn about the producers and establish long term relationships with them. So if you're unsure how to approach "natural" wines but are intrigued, drop in and ask lots of questions. They'll be able to steer you to some very interesting wines.
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