Death and Company - A Review

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The much praised Death & Co. took some time to win us over. The cocktails were good but the doormen annoying, and so were the crowds. There was the constant impending doom of potential closing surrounding the place. And it was just too uneven on the bartender front. Yet over time, we were drawn back again and again until we couldn't deny it - it's become a favorite cocktail spot.

Today, Death & Co. is as close to a classic NYC bar as has opened in the new millennium. The drink list is impressively vast yet smartly broken down by category of booze. The bartenders are sure of their craft. And the room is as comfortable as it gets, save the cold blast of air near the door in wintertime.

It's all about the drinks, of course. And on that account, D&Co excels, with top-notch ingredients, creativity and highly balanced recipes, some with close to 10 ingredients.

Since we are biased towards brown liquor, we head straight for the whiskey section. Highly recommended are The Faithful Scotsman (Compass Box Scotch, Massenez Creme de Peche, Fresh Pineapple and Lemon Juice, Cumin Syrup) and the Grouse Rampant (Apple-Infused Grouse Scotch, Honey and Cinnamon Bark Syrup, Fresh Lemon and Pineapple Juice, Organic Egg White, Peychaud's Bitters). The very good Manhattan Transfer is a play on the classic, adding Ramazzotti for a hint of bitterness. Even better is the Carroll Gardens, a deliciously bracing Manhattan-alternative composed of Rittenhouse Rye, Nardini Amaro, Punt e Mes and Luxardo Maraschino.

The Oaxaca Old Fashioned (El Tesoro Reposado Tequila, Los Amantes Joven Mezcal, Agave Nectar, Angostura Bitters) is a solid take on the classic with just enough smokiness provided by the mezcal. If you are pining for warmer weather cocktails, the "Indian Summer" section will help you forget the winter blues with several rum concoctions, although it's the scotch-based Myra Breckinridge (Laphroaig, Absinthe, Fresh Lime, Sugar Cane Syrup) that's a favorite. Misses are few, like The Joy Division (Beefeater, Noilly Pratt Dry Vermouth, Cointreau, St. George Absinthe) or Passing Aden (Batavia Arrack, Harvest-Moon Tea-infused Carpano Antica Vermouth, Dememrara, Bitter Truth Aromatic Bitters, Lemon Twist, Cinnamon Stick), neither of each quite came together in a balanced way.

Or you can always tell one of the bartenders - our fave is Joaquin Simo - what you feel like; chances are, they'll hit the nail on the head.

Props to D&C for giving a printed copy of the menu and further props to a really comprehensive website complete with recipes and drink tips - store vermouth in the fridge, don't freeze your vodka if you want it to work properly in a cocktail. Bloody good all around.

Death and Company

433 E. 6th Street
Open Daily 6pm - Midnight
No reservations, expect waits at peak hours

1 Comment

Great review, HB! I haven't been to D&C in probably close to a year, but have been thinking lately that I should give them another chance. Your descriptions of the cocktails are further convincing me that I should do so, if for no other reason than to try that Carroll Gardens--sounds excellent.

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This page contains a single entry by Head Bartender published on March 3, 2009 4:15 PM.

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