Raines Law Room - A Review

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No name on display, long narrow room, buzzer for admission, classic cocktails, yup, it's another speakeasy. But the Raines Law Room seems to be a speakeasy that's a little bit different - and the odd absence of an actual bar is only part of it.

Part of it is the people involved - the mixologist and owners are not "big" names, though they have solid backgrounds in the industry. Thus, a cocktail list that is more classically-inspired than the more mixologist-driven places like PDT and Tailor. And then there Paul - a doorman, manager and chocolatier, who elevates the place all by himself. He is unfailingly polite, extremely gracious and...nice. When he apologizes that there will be a wait and takes your number, you know he is sincere and will call you as soon as he can. Even better, he makes his own chocolates by hand and sells them on site ($12 for a box of 6). They are creative, unusual and delicious - and most of them are vegan. But you wouldn't know it as even the vegan ones taste rich and decadent.

But we digress - a cocktail bar is first and foremost about the cocktails. And on that front, they are doing well, though list is shorter than we had expected.

Cocktails are $13 except for some specials, which can run as high as $19, like the Smoke and Mirrors (Glenmorangie 10 year old single malt, sweet vermouth, apricot brandy), a very good drink that was slightly off in execution - it needed a touch more scotch to balance the apricot. The Gold Rush (Buffalo Trace bourbon, honey & lemon) was also light on bourbon. (We at Boozy like to taste our chosen poison and aren't happy when the sweetness of other ingredients to mask the spirits' flavors.) When fixed, the Gold Rush was very good, as were the Old Cuban and a Manhattan made with Rittenhouse rye. The Morris was a tad sweet for our taste while the Archangel combined aperol, gin and cucumber in a refreshing way. The Champs Elysees (cognac, green chartreuse, lime, sugar and bitters) seemed to be very popular among the guests, along with the Archangel, but didn't live up to the dazzle in its name - is was a light start but not memorable.

The room was attractive and displayed admirable attention to detail - it's filled with plush large velvet couches and armchairs, mirrors, tin ceilings, but it is also very dark and at a certain hour, they pull sheer curtains around the sofas, which compartmentalize the space too much. When full, the room has a nice hum but we too often overheard our neighbor's conversation and cocktail crafting slows to a crawl. We like the idea of the bell to get service as well. If only certain restaurants had a way to signal the waitstaff!

The Raines Law Room has potential but the cocktails need to be more precise in their execution and they need to find that truly delicious drink that will make us go out of the way to visit.

The Raines Law Room
48 West 17th Street
no phone, first come first served
(For ease of entry, arrive around 8pm - 9pm or before 6:30pm. They are busiest after work and later, from 10pm on.)

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This page contains a single entry by Head Bartender published on March 10, 2009 10:00 PM.

Introducing Rosangel was the previous entry in this blog.

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