Czech Hospitality

At first glance, a modern Czech (!) restaurant may seem like a natural beer destination but in reality they only serve Pilsner Urquell, which we've had a few times in bottles but struck us as too bitter and inferior to Czech Budvar (sold here in the somewhat reformulated Czechvar). At Hospoda, Urquell is served four ways from the all foam 'sweet' to the no foam 'neat' so we were skeptical. However, once we saw the serious set-up for dispensing brews and the sample of the sudsy 'sweet' arrived on the table, we were won over. The 'sweet' version was worth a try but not a full glass in our opinion, but the 'creme' with its substantial head proved ideal. At $8 per pint, it's not cheap but it was definitely fresh and well paired with the modern Czech-inspired market menu. You can also get a tasting of all four types for $19.

Perhaps surprisingly, the secret weapon at Hospoda is a terrific winelist, full of fun, geeky wines. Vanessa, one of the  sommeliers, is constantly getting her hands on fun stuff - just ask to speak to her and let her know your preferences. More than a dozen wines are offered by the glass including a terrific Tokaji Furmint 2007 and Gruner Veltliner 2010 from Anton Bauer. Also very good was a 2008 Slovakian Riesling, made by a German winemaker across the border from his homeland. Wines by the glass are listed as pairings behind the menu - just line up the two pages to see suggested matchups - but really don't need to be so prescribed. There is a growing by the bottle list, and if you have the big bucks, some very good but pricey sparkling wines such as the Sekt Brut 2005 from Brundlmayer and a number of grower champagnes from Egly-Ouriet, Philipponat and Pierre Gimmonet & Fils.

Overall the food was very good albeit with some unnecessary fussiness in presentation and occasional overload of ingredients on the plate. The menu design is also a bit precious - three categories of small plates divided into Green Market, Chef's and Czech. Two canape/amuses were served including an amazing, perfectly seasoned beef tartar. The standout dish was Prague-style ham with a zesty horseradish foam while the boletus mushrooms accompanying the chicken were also outstanding. Almost as good was the take on a scotch egg, a crisp free range egg accompanied by a delicious creamy cauliflower veloute and the smoked beef tongue atop a yellow pea puree. Our one critique would be simply give us more Czech - the best two dishes came from the Czech section and left us wanting more Eastern flavors. Desserts unfortunately were largely skippable.

The space is loud and cool - a lightwall shining through cutout shapes, long standing bar where the beer is dispensed and glass-ceilinged wine cellar - though it's not quite sure if it wants to be a high end restaurant or casual dining spot. Whichever it chooses to be is fine by us. But it would help greatly if it were 60 or 70 blocks south. Then again, we'd never get in if it were. So make the trek and enjoy one of NYC's most interesting new restaurants.