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The Beagle Roars

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Beagle drink.jpg
The Beagle. When thinking of things to name cocktail bars after, small meek-mannered canines are not necessarily where we would go. But when a co-founder of Portland's seminal Clyde Common decided to drop a cocktail restaurant in the middle of the uber competitive East Village, we were intrigued. Name notwithstanding.

It was almost as if by accident we found our way to The Beagle shortly after it first opened. The hype was fairly minimal and the room quiet, so we easily found spots at the bar. Apparently, that night we had sherry on the brain - ordering both the Adonis, a mix of fino sherry, sweet vermouth and orange bitters and The Artist's Special (scotch, oloroso sherry, lemon juice & red currant syrup), which both hit the spot. The only misstep was a "pairing board" of sweetbreads and calvados - more on that concept in a moment.

A few months later, we dropped in for a more. The room was buzzing in a way it hadn't been earlier though luck had two barstools ready for us. We revisited the two aforementioned drinks, which stood up over time, though the Adonis now strikes us more as a jumping off point. We delved further into the menu, finding unexpected combinations and complexity. Highly recommended are the V.O.C. (Genever, Swedish rum, Lillet, lemon & angostura), which was very complex with herbal notes - let it warm up for the full effect - and the Golden Dog, a rich yet slightly sweet drink with Talisker 10 year old scotch, Lillet, Benedictine, apricot liqueur & angostura. El Guero shows off the lighter side of mezcal - another drink to start with. Meanwhile, if you're feeling adventurous, try one of the Barrel-Aged Cocktails - when we were in they were serving a rich, terrific Solera-Aged White Dog Manhattan.

A word on the pairing boards - they can be hit or miss. If you're looking for a high wire act, this is where you'll find it. Burrata and gin? Lamb neck and rye? Sweetbreads and calvados? The last one we tried over the summer and it was discordant. More recently, it was uni and sherry - yes that again, it's a theme at The Beagle. The sherry was good, a manzanilla from Manuel Cuevas, though the uni that came with it was on the meager side.

Sherry cocktails, attention to detail and barrel-aged drinks. That's a recipe for success and we'll happily occupy a stool anytime one is open. Maybe it's not the most famous place in the in town, but, somehow The Beagle stands on its own. And that's really saying something.

The Tippler

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NYC has a new heavyweight entrant to the cocktail bar scene - The Tippler (425 W. 15th Street), a subterranean hideaway opened by the Tippling Bros aka Tad Carducci and Paul Tanguay. Up till now, they have consulted around town but this is the first standalone venture opened by the duo. And what a spot it is - a sprawling former storage basement underneath the foodie paradise & media hub known as the Chelsea Market.

Nothing can prepare you for the two story descent off the street or the large, heretofore disused space in such a prime location. The room is momentarily disorienting so head for the bar, which is carefully woven into the structural beams along one side of the space, or grab a table under the archways across from the bar.

The menu is large - more than two dozen cocktails plus numerous wines and craft beers - but the care put into everything is clearly evident. Of the many cocktails we sampled, most were very good and the couple that didn't quite reach that standard were nevertheless interesting. Drinks follow the current trend of being layered with sometimes competing flavors, using artisanal bitters and unusual ingredients (hops, chiles, malt).

The Dizzy Oaxacan (Sombra mezcal, Averna amaro, grapefruit, lemon, ginger beer and chile) had a light touch, slightly sweet but the mezcal's smokiness came through nicely. The Improved Improved Wisecracker (Ron Zacapa, Meletti amaro, demerara, lemon, harissa) had a nice savory quality, while he Crippler (WhistlePig rye, J.M overproof rhum, Stroh Jagertee, Fidencio mezcal, Yellow Chartreuse, bbq bitters) landed on right side of vanilla and caramel thanks to its surprising mix of ingredients, and the Spazerac (Redemption rye, sugar, Peychaud's bitters, absinthe, sacrilege) was okay but a little heavy on the absinthe. On the other hand, the delicious Stool pigeon (Pierre Ferrand cognac, amontillado sherry, orange curacao, blackberries, Peychaud's bitters) had a nice salty quality from the sherry. Curly and the Turk (G'Vine gin, curacao, lemon, hibiscus, chile, Moroccan bitters) was a bit odd and was best served by stirring until it achieved a bloody mary-like effect. Lastly, the Wise Cold Sage (J.M white rhum agricole, Creole Shrubb, grapefruit, sage, sirop de cann) was a nice balance of rum and fruit, while the Marauder of 15th Street (El Jimador tequila, sloe gin chile) was an excellent top-off to the night.

This may not necessarily come as a surprise, but The Tippler simply annihilates all its "competition" in the Meatpacking wasteland. It's reassuring that ambition still has a place in that part of town and even better, that a place this good has plenty of room for both scenesters and more serious cocktail aficionados.

This Bird Don't Fly

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Midtown is hardly known as a cocktail destination, though the odd exception does pop up like Lantern's Keep, so we were intrigued when speakeasy in the sky J Bird opened up at 251 W. 48th Street.

For starters, let's just say most of the fun is getting there - you enter a service area and an elevator operator whisks you up to the rooftop lounge XVI - from there you follow the birds in the hallway, go through a door, down the steps and make a left, go through another door and find yourself in the "secret" lounge. The space is large - don't let the website fool you with talk of being intimate or having limited reservations - with a large square bar at the entrance and two seating areas under a covered skylight. A view of the Hudson makes the western side the best place to sit, besides the bar, though be forewarned that the space is littered with tiny cocktail tables that barely hold drinks and are too low for the seats.

The drinks? Well, let's start with the absurd price of $16 per cocktail. This sort of pricing is egregious and far above what other, better cocktail dens charge. Should we pay a premium for some difficult to find space run by less-than-household name cocktailians in Midtown? Certainly not.

The menu is large with lots of infusions and syrups - our recommendation is to talk extensively with the bartender about sweetness level and flavor profiles as the flavors can be surprising. The best drink was the Moon on the Rain, (Calvados VSOP, Dubonnet and quince gastrique) that was rich and pleasantly Dubonnet forward, followed by La Rosita (Anejo tequila, Antica Vermouth & Campari) - the Campari perfectly balanced out the tequila. The Coco Viejo was Zacapa rum infused with coco and coffee beans, cane syrup and grapefruit bitters - a strong coffee flavor that thankfully mellowed somewhat with ice. Not unpleasant but for a particular palate, not to mention it overwhelmed other drinks on the table. Worst was the Brush on the Bush (Anejo tequila, mezcal, cherry bark, sage agave nectar & vanilla bitters), which buried the mezcal in sweetness even though we were assured it was a smoky drink. The staff raved about The Maddow, a gin cocktail overwhelmed by elderflower, and not likely to be favored by its TV star namesake. Were any of these drinks worth $16? Nope.

Aside from the pricing, the other thing to watch out for is the 20% service charge tacked on every check - making the drinks $19! While we always tip 20% or more, we found this to be shady - when the credit card bill comes, there is a section for tip and no doubt many people have added on extra without needing to. While the service charge should be clearly stated, it wasn't on the menu and the bartender did not state it, so it left us with a bad impression.

Frankly, there is little to recommend a trip to JBird - certainly it hasn't caught on by the looks of the empty room on a recent night. Shockingly, they are threatening more of these places. Unfortunately, his bird is more of a turkey. And we all know they don't fly.

Czech Hospitality

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Hospoda int.jpgThere aren't many reasons to trek up to the East 70s but we've found one - the recently opened Czech restaurant Hospoda (321 E. 73rd St, website). 

At first glance, a modern Czech (!) restaurant may seem like a natural beer destination but in reality they only serve Pilsner Urquell, which we've had a few times in bottles but struck us as too bitter and inferior to Czech Budvar (sold here in the somewhat reformulated Czechvar). At Hospoda, Urquell is served four ways from the all foam 'sweet' to the no foam 'neat' so we were skeptical. However, once we saw the serious set-up for dispensing brews and the sample of the sudsy 'sweet' arrived on the table, we were won over. The 'sweet' version was worth a try but not a full glass in our opinion, but the 'creme' with its substantial head proved ideal. At $8 per pint, it's not cheap but it was definitely fresh and well paired with the modern Czech-inspired market menu. You can also get a tasting of all four types for $19.

Perhaps surprisingly, the secret weapon at Hospoda is a terrific winelist, full of fun, geeky wines. Vanessa, one of the  sommeliers, is constantly getting her hands on fun stuff - just ask to speak to her and let her know your preferences. More than a dozen wines are offered by the glass including a terrific Tokaji Furmint 2007 and Gruner Veltliner 2010 from Anton Bauer. Also very good was a 2008 Slovakian Riesling, made by a German winemaker across the border from his homeland. Wines by the glass are listed as pairings behind the menu - just line up the two pages to see suggested matchups - but really don't need to be so prescribed. There is a growing by the bottle list, and if you have the big bucks, some very good but pricey sparkling wines such as the Sekt Brut 2005 from Brundlmayer and a number of grower champagnes from Egly-Ouriet, Philipponat and Pierre Gimmonet & Fils.

Overall the food was very good albeit with some unnecessary fussiness in presentation and occasional overload of ingredients on the plate. The menu design is also a bit precious - three categories of small plates divided into Green Market, Chef's and Czech. Two canape/amuses were served including an amazing, perfectly seasoned beef tartar. The standout dish was Prague-style ham with a zesty horseradish foam while the boletus mushrooms accompanying the chicken were also outstanding. Almost as good was the take on a scotch egg, a crisp free range egg accompanied by a delicious creamy cauliflower veloute and the smoked beef tongue atop a yellow pea puree. Our one critique would be simply give us more Czech - the best two dishes came from the Czech section and left us wanting more Eastern flavors. Desserts unfortunately were largely skippable.

The space is loud and cool - a lightwall shining through cutout shapes, long standing bar where the beer is dispensed and glass-ceilinged wine cellar - though it's not quite sure if it wants to be a high end restaurant or casual dining spot. Whichever it chooses to be is fine by us. But it would help greatly if it were 60 or 70 blocks south. Then again, we'd never get in if it were. So make the trek and enjoy one of NYC's most interesting new restaurants.
Ma Peche.jpgIt always struck us as odd that Ma Peche (15 West 56th Street) opened in the former Town space, a subterranean dining room underneath the Chambers Hotel. Years ago, Town was a favorite of ours since it was home to Albert Trummer and his then groundbreaking cocktails. Eventually, the restaurant dropped off the radar and then closed, leaving an empty basement we thought for sure would never matter again. Instead, David Chang and Tien Ho at the height of their powers came calling. However, the opening never really intrigued us - were we going to hike up to Midtown for stuff we got at Ssam Bar? Not really. So time passed and we never went.

Recently, we found ourselves nearby so, as much lured by the promise of Crack Pie as by cocktails, we headed to the bar. We found ourselves mostly alone except for some tourists looking for a Gin & Tonic as well as the occasional deuce that didn't seem to linger. Seemed to confirm our fears that Chang was far from home with this outpost, especially given the decor, which is borderline depressing. Sitting at the bar, you literally have a view of a blank, brown wall.

Undaunted, we tried a few cocktails - the Jim Joe with 12 year old Yamazaki whiskey & elderflower and the Seven Spice Sour with togarashi infused Honjozo sake, yuzu and lime. Both were well made but neither really had much of a spark. The Yamazaki mellowed over ice but never went anywhere, while the spice mix courtesy of the togarashi was pretty muted and only somewhat evident on the finish. 

The real draw turned out to be the extraordinarily geeky winelist, which features an entire page devoted to Jura - are they trying to send the tourists into shock? No matter, we dug right in. The Andre et Mireille Tissot Vin Jaune was terrific and the perfect match for the cuisine. Also good was a "Selection" blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin from the same producer. In the red department, we enjoyed the Red Hook  '08 Cabernet Franc blend, though the bottle had just been opened and it needed time to breathe. Other off-kilter wines available by the bottle include Kalin and Scholium Project, both from CA, and Paolo Bea from Italy. Long Island is represented by several bottles from one of its best wineries, Paumanok.

Oh, and the food? Let's just say the Crispy Pig's Head, which in no way resembles a porcine noggin but rather a hockey puck, was one of the best things we've eaten this year. The meat inside the crispy puck was deliciously juicy and nicely set off with a tangy mustard. Underneath was a tasty pile of nicely stewed lentils. Other solid choices were the very fresh fluke and an excellent beef tartare made with Niman ranch beef.

Have our Midtown skepticisms been allayed? Well, we still think it's not a great location for a Chang joint but considering the terrific execution of the food and stellar winelist, we will be back.

Maison Premiere

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Maison premiere bar.jpgEvery once in a while, a fantastic new place pops up out of nowhere. Case in point, Williamsburg's new oyster and cocktail hot spot Maison Premiere (298 Bedford Avenue) has become an instant classic, a slice of New Orleans married to NYC's booming cocktail scene. The decor takes the fab chic trend of the last decade - sorry Freeman's - and perfects it with small details, including antique lamps and mirrors, a cozy 8-seat oyster bar and old-fashioned absinthe fountain behind the bar. What could easily have become the EPCOT Center of New York/Nawlins nostalgia instead feels real and vibrant.

While we were tempted by the copious absinthe list, presently NYC's largest at almost two dozen, the delicious-sounding cocktails were the real draw. The Old Hickory was a deliciously refreshing mix of two vermouths (Dolin Blanc, Carpano Antica ) and two bitters (Peychaud's, Orange) served on the rocks ($8). We couldn't pass up their version of the classic a la Louisianne ($10) which nicely married the Old Overholt, Vieux Pontardier, Carpano Antica, Benedictine and Peychaud's. Also, refreshing with a nice citrusy acidity perfect for the suddenly hot weather was the Carondelet ($10), Beefeater, lime, lemon, honey, vanilla and sea salt. The one clunker, Roffignac at Sea ($11), was a too-sweet concoction with cognac, benedictine, maldon salt and caramel. This drink seemed better suited to colder weather and hopes of it mellowing past the initial sweetness were dashed.

The menu at Maison Premiere is solely raw bar, primarily oysters. The incredible selection includes some more obscure varieties from both the east and west coasts, generally around $2.40 - $2.85. That may not seem a lot but after a long night of drinking, which we heartily endorse, and the oysters will start to add up. May the green fairy be with you!

Weather Up Tribeca

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The other night, Time Out New York's readers handed out awards to a couple of drinking spots, including "Best New Local" going to deserved winner The Tangled Vine and "Best Cocktail Bar" given to Williamsburg's very good Dram. But the list of joints up in the latter category was curious to say the least - Lani Kai, which as a tiki joint is something we're just not too hip on, Painkiller (ditto) and Weather Up Tribeca. 

Now we realize the folks at TONY went wild for tiki last year but honestly, two joints on the list? And no Counting Room, clearly one of the best all-around bars to open in recent years in this city? So that brings us to the Tribeca outlet of Weather Up, a small Brooklyn bar with some good drinks but otherwise unremarkable. Would it step it up in new fancy digs in one of the richest zip codes in the country? 

We first ventured into the Tribeca outpost shortly after it opened and had an okay experience. We figured on letting it gel for a while and returned recently to find, shockingly, the exact same drink list in place. This is an odd occurrence for this town - with joints these days slavishly seasonal - but perhaps they're just completely in love with these drinks. We get that having been occasionally disappointed by the rapid changes in lists at Death & Co, PDT, etc. But the exact same list four months later?

First up, we tried the Via Vero, which was good when we first had it and still enjoyable. The drink is a nice balance of anejo rum, pear liqueur and carpano antica, strong with a bracing bitter (Jerry Thomas') at the forefront. Unfortunately, the White Horse, whiskey, housemade ginger syrup and fresh lemon, was more problematic - the ginger is potent and overwhelms the cocktail. The best drink on the list is the Quaker, a foamy mix of rye, cognac, housemade grenadine and fresh lemon juice, which gives it a pronounced citrus element that almost but not quite tips the balance of the drink. On the other hand, the drink had a giant orange peel that was awkward to deal with. When in doubt, you can "Keep Calm and Carry On" - in other wordsdo what every other joint in town does and let the bartender decide. We've had mixed success with this option in the two times we've been in.

A note on prices - you're in Tribeca so you will pay accordingly. Prices are $14 - $16 for the now ubiquitous tiny cocktail glasses. They also have a menu that includes some offbeat items as well as oysters and caviar. Welcome to Manhattan.
The Campbell Apartment in Grand Central Station holds a fabled place in New York City bar lore - it's beautiful, well located and always packed. Somehow, we'd never actually managed to visit... until the other night. Turns out that we were missing nothing more than a poorly executed churn 'n' burn commuter/tourist trap.

The hour was late but the room was still fairly busy. We walked past the lobby coat check - classy that - and inside to grab a few post dinner drinks at the bar. We lasted less than 15 minutes, the experience was that bad.

The main issue with The Campbell Apartment boils down to a complete lack of quality control or care put into cocktail craftsmanship. The bartenders are also not New York level bartenders - on the night we were there, we actually thought they were bar backs. We ordered a couple of drinks including a Manhattan. That was a mistake.

The "bartender" failed the first test by not asking our preference for spirits. Then he put the ingredients in a shaker and shook it exactly three times. Then it arrived in front of yours truly. The entire process took less than a minute, indicative of a place servicing high volumes. Not surprisingly, the drink was out of balance and just bad. Another cocktail - the Commodore, made with bourbon, creme de cacao, grenadine & fresh lemon juice - was just undrinkable. 

Some people may think the gorgeous space and convenient location justifies the rest, but we don't. There are far too many places to drink in this town. Oh, and another word of warning - the same outfit runs the Empire Room in the Empire State Building, among others. Maybe that place is better but we have our doubts. We're not about to go and find out.
D_C menu.jpgIt's been nearly a year since we last visited Death & Company (433 E. 6th Street) - not for lack of trying mind you - and we were pleasantly surprised to slip in just after they introduced the new Winter Cocktail list. Could the new list yet again live up to four years of excellence, not to mention make up for a somewhat disappointing previous visit? As it turns out, the list is one of the strongest they've produced in years.

As always, we flipped immediately to the Whiskey page and found ourselves facing a pleasant dilemma - there were too many choices. Our first two picks both proved to be excellent - the Vampire Blues, Old Weller Bourbon, Lustau Sherry, Fresh Lemon, Pumpkin Butter, Angostura, and Whiskey A Go-Go, Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Meletti Amaro, Fresh Lemon, Cinnamon Bark Syrup, Demerara, Fernet Branca. The Vampire Blues was lush and creamy the Whiskey A Go-Go had a nice bitter finish balanced by the bourbon and syrup - both are instant classics. Later in the evening, we revisited each as they were clear favorites even in the face of a very strong list. The Manhattan-like Jive Turkey, a rare holdover from their very first list - Wild Turkey rye, Buffalo Trace, Cio Ciaro Amaro, Dolin Dry Vermouth, St. Germain, Angostura bitters - was reliably good as was another newcomer featuring Cinnamon bark syrup called Jekyll & Hyde - Eagle Rare 10 year old Bourbon, Lairds Apple Brandy, Demerara, Cinnamon barky syrup, Angostura, Bitter Truth Aromatic bitters.

Though the Whiskey section was right in our comfort zone, we forced ourselves outside the box for another few rounds. The Flor de Jerez was another terrific drink featuring another repeat ingredient, sherry. The combination of Appleton Reserve Rum, Lustau Amontillado Sherry, Fresh Lemon, Petite Cane Sugar, Apricot & Angostura, was dark, rich and perfectly balanced. We had two, just to make sure. The oldie East India Trading Company features a similar group of ingredients - Appleton Reserve Rum, Lustau East India Solera Sherry, Ramazotti, Bittermen's Mole Bitters - but isn't as strong in comparison to the more complex Flor de Jerez. The only clunker was Howl on the Hill, promising on paper thanks to a blend of El Dorado 15 yr Rum, Santa Theresa 1796 Rum, Carpano Antica, Fernet Branca, Yellow Chartreuse & Vieux Pontarlier Absinthe, but out of balance and ultimately undrinkable.

As always, the food was solid and better than it needs to be. Unfortunately, no prosciutto and cheese flatbread was in evidence but the Maple Pork Belly was quite tasty and the Crispy Fries did their job, soaking up a bit of the booze. Though by the sight of us two days later, not enough to prevent a monster hangover. Such is the life of BoozyNYC.

We were quite pleased to see D+C back at the top of its game. Along with Raines Law Room, it really is among the very best cocktail spots in town. Let's hope this new menu has a long run.

Stirring Up a Hurricane

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Hurricane.jpgThe Hurricane Club (360 Park Avenue South) is the type of corporate theme restaurant we tend to avoid - unless we've been carousing for hours and let our guard down in search of one last drink. That's precisely what happened recently when we found ourselves in the relative wasteland that is Park Avenue in the mid-20s.

The first thing that struck us was the bar had been moved out of view of the street and now was the centerpiece of the formerly cavernous space (once occupied by Porcao). This turned out to be a smart thing - it anchors the room and allowed AvroKO to apportion it into cozier seating areas. Not that the design was particularly inspired, but at least the place is above the Epcot Center level we expected before walking in.

What about the drinks? We tried three and two of them were quite good. The third? Well, it was terrible. 

First surprise was how interesting the cocktail actually is - they are making 5 different kinds of bitters in-house and bringing unusual spices and ingredients into the mix. But on the downside is a bewilderingly long list with drinks inexplicably numbered instead of named. So with a heavy dose of skepticism that they could execute that many drinks, we ordered a #17 (Montecristo spiced rum, coconut, lemon grass, kaffir lime) and #47 (Don Q Cristal, soursop, pineapple and lemon). #17 was nicely balanced, light and island-y enough to help us forget the unseasonably cold night, but #47 was a disaster, unbalanced and poorly executed. #47 was immediately replaced by #77 (Montecristo spiced rum, cardammom, coconut, passion fruit) which was much better. The bartender didn't blink an eye in whisking away the offending drink. Drinks are generally $12 - $15, more for punches meant for groups.

With such a long list, it's hard to pass judgment based on three drinks. But considering we were expecting something tacky and unappealing, the bar, at least, far surpassed our expectations. We'll let you know if we stumble back in there for more...
Eleven Mad cocktails lo.jpgOne of our favorite bars in NYC is found inside the four-star Eleven Madison Park (11 Madison Avenue). While the restaurant itself has been the scene of highs and low for us, the bar has consistently been one of the best in town, from the welcome of head bartender Leo to the scrumptious cocktail nuts to the thoughtful, well made cocktails. Much of this is due to the staff's ability to both reference cocktail history and also creatively use ingredients in new and different ways.

Eleven Madison's bar really comes into its own with the colder weather - when the drinks turn dark and complex, playing off bitter and smoky elements. So we eagerly looked forward to the new menu - and with good reason. A couple unavoidable trends were evident on the list - among them sherry and the use of amaros. We're big fans of both so we tried the Transcontinental (Old Tom Gin, Amontillado Sherry, Porter Syrup, Carpano Punt e Mes Sweet Vermouth & Mezcal) and the Mott & Mulberry (Rye, Luxardo Amaro Abano, Apple Cider, Lemon). The former ($15) was a deliciously layered drink with just a spritz of mezcal on top to give added depth - one of the best drinks we've tried recently. The latter ($14) was a nice balance of bitter, apple and citrus. Also well made was the Far Eastsider (Japanese Single Malt Whiskey, Sake, Triple Sec, Carpano Punt e Mes Sweet Vermouth, $15). The Fly Fox (Genever Gin, Blanco Highland Tequila, Cocchi Americano, Mezcal, Concord Grape, $15) had an underlying hint of sweet which worked well with the Americano.

Always matching our high expectations, te cocktail program continually intrigues and challenges at Eleven Madison. That puts it near the top of any list of NYC bars in our book.


Not Exactly D-Best

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The other night we were lured by the perfect storm of pizza and cocktails into Donatella's new venture - D Bar. How was it? Well, let's start by saying that it was with some surprise that we read today that the mediocre margherita pizza - they imported real Neapolitans for this? - was just inexplicably called a "perfect pizza" by Slice.com. Apparently, tasteless "dry" cheese cuts it for them but we have some standards and they don't include gold ovens... anyway this is a booze blog. What about the drinks? Oi vey, do they need work.

First of all, the look of D Bar is almost there - it's narrow, dark and has some swagger. But what's with Katy Perry on the soundtrack? Seriously cuts down on the coolness factor. The bar is long and welcoming, but the staff ranges from haughty to clueless. We know you just opened, but show some effort guys. We ordered a few drinks and can't recommend any of them. The menu is divided into classics and new concoctions so we hit each. Surprisingly, an Aviation was somehow so out of balance and bitter it was borderline undrinkable. Worse was the Full House, a super sweet drink - "all our drinks are balanced" said the bartender as he served this one up - consisting of Applejack, Benedictine, Green Chartreuse and Angostura bitters. The Donatella? Sorry, any signature drink with Ciroc Coconut Vodka (huh) is just not a serious cocktail. The best libation was the Rebel's Delight, a nicely balanced mix of Rebel Yell Bourbon, Bittersweet Apple Cider, Honey syrup, Lime and Sage. It's served on the rocks so drink fast - the ice opens up the bourbon but then quickly dilutes the drink. We skipped the Moonshiner simply due to the chocolate bitters - didn't sound appealing but let us know if we were wrong. All cocktails are $12.

You might want to give them some time before venturing into D Bar. For the moment, it's a D-zaster.

The Counting Room

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Counting Room lo.jpgOne of this year's best new bars is actually two bars. But that's okay, because if you can't decide between wine or cocktails, now you can go somewhere to have both - The Counting Room (44 Berry Street, Williamsburg).

As little as three or four years ago, there was nowhere to drink anything decent in the 'Burg but now there is an amazing selection of places for every taste, everything from Hotel Delmano to Rye to Loreley Biergarten. And with the arrival of The Counting Room, you have real sophistication, in the form of an adventurous winelist and creative cocktails, which so far have proven to be the best in the area.

The winelist features interesting wines from small producers around the world. Those in the know will find many gems here - especially since most bottles can be opened and bought by the half bottle. That means the by-the-glass list constantly changes based on what other people order. Some great choices on the list include a 2006 Movia Ribolla and the 2007 Guitian Godello. Check the chalkboard for nightly wines open by the glass.

The cocktail program is run downstairs in the cavernous basement, which provides a bit of a logistical issue. Technically, you need to go downstairs to get a cocktail, which is awkward if you're with wine drinkers upstairs. However, if you get the owner serving you at the bar, she'll make sure your order is placed. But the servers themselves are much more likely to direct you down than make an effort to take your cocktail order upstairs. The policy should be that if you're sitting upstairs, service staff get the drinks from downstairs, not you. Telling customers to do differently when you have waitstaff is awkward, to say the least.

Regardless, the cocktails have proven to be very good and it's a credit to the mixologists that there is a lot to choose from. Our favorite was the Arbitrary Nature of Time, a boozy mix of Wild Turkey Rye, Campari, cherry heering and two types of bitters, mole and orange. Salt & Ash pairs both mezcal and tequila with a lapsong suchong vermouth to equally good, and smoky effect. Another tequila drink, Karmic Delight, was a fizzy delight - tequila, Plymouth sloe gin and egg white. If you're looking for something lighter and more refreshing, try A Lazy Spring, Beefeater gin, rosemary-infused Blanco Vermouth, honey, lemon and black peppercorns.

There is a small food menu of items prepared at the upstairs bar. We enjoyed the "Green Eggs & Ham" Deviled Eggs ($3) while the bag of croutons will do in a pinch. The menu also includes sandwiches such as a tasty Grilled Cheese and the Pork & Philly, but your best bet is to eat before coming to booze.

Some might consider opening on the wrong side of Williamsburg - closer to Brooklyn Brewery than Bedford - to be gutsy, even fatal for a bar of The Counting Room's class and style, but we only hope that in time the crowds will find this terrific new spot. In the meantime, pull up a stool and tell them BoozyNYC sent you.

A Decided Lack of Joy

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NOJ lo.jpgNight of Joy (667 Lorimer Street) sits on a forlorn East Williamsburg corner in the shadow of the BQE. It also stands in the shadows of the city's great cocktail bars and that's not a good place to be.

At first glance, Night of Joy has some things going for it - a large space, friendly prices ($9 cocktails), lack of crowds and a roof deck. However, stepping into the somewhat schizophrenic, dimly lit space, with its Victorian front, long bar with cushy high backs and rear room with pool table, hopes for something interesting start to fade. The disjointed atmosphere - part lounge, part hipster hangout - just does not gel.

The drink list is short and lacking in information - only the ingredients and booze are listed, not the maker, which in retrospect should have been a clue. It turns out they are not using the top shelf stuff in their drinks - hence $9 cocktails - and the results were, for us, universally disappointing. The drinks are also heavy on herbs - beet and dill vodka anyone? Not for us. We started with a Basil & Lime Gimlet made with Mr. Boston gin. The drink was one-dimensional and would have benefited from a gin with more character. The Jalapeno, Black Currant and Tequila was slightly out of balance and too spicy to fully enjoy, though with ice dilution it became more bearable. Rosemary, Bourbon, Ginger and Lemon was a bit soapy and the Evan Williams bourbon surprisingly got lost. Another spicy drink, the Cilantro Bloody Maria, made with tequila, mostly tasted muddy. Something added an unpleasant note and we suspect the Worcestershire sauce, though we can't be sure. In addition to the cocktails, there are local beers and a short, affordable winelist with selections priced at $8 by the glass and $30 by the bottle.

Night of Joy doesn't have it together yet in the way that nearby Hotel Delmano or The Counting Room does. A little less pretension and higher booze standards would go a long way in rectifying that. Otherwise, that blinking neon out front light may not be illuminating the night much longer.

Anfora Wine Bar

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The wine bar craze continues unabated with the arrival Anfora (34 8th Avenue), from the guys who brought you Dell'anima. Open just a few weeks, Anfora is theoretically a kind of homage to what was the main wine vessel for many centuries, though in reality it's just a name for a sleek, almost souless wine bar that can best be described as a work in progress. At worst, one could say it's suffering from the 7 Deadly Restaurant Sins:

#1 Off putting atmosphere - walking into Anfora Anfora int.jpgcan seem like stepping inside a rather stinky sock. On our visit, the smell of the ubiquitous grilled cheese sandwich permeated the air and was borderline offensive. No, we did not try the grilled cheese.

#2 Wine Infanticide - yes, we understand that a lot of wine is sold to restaurants too young. But wine bars really need to make sure the wine being served is ready to drink. Certainly most any red from 2008 is too young. It's nice to see a Sicilian Nero D'Avola in the anfora style on the list but it's too young. Ditto for the Bierzo "Petalos" Descendientes de Palacios 2008 (a 2006 is listed on the website but not available). Neither of these wines are anywhere near ready to drink. The list contains a lot of great winemakers and leans heavily on a favorite producer of ours - Lopez de Heredia. Unfortunately, they seem to have some of the less interesting vintages. The Gravonia from 2000 wasn't giving much and is certainly not on the level of the great, slightly oxidized 1999. Their 2000 "Tondonia" Rosado was better but again somewhat muted.

#3 Lack of Info - too many places these days have staff that don't really know anything about the wines. These servers have been told to pour you a taste without actually talking about the wine. It's ok, we actually like to hear something about the wine before you run off to get us a taste.

#4 Not user friendly - the trend among wine bars to pour half-glass or 3oz tastes is welcome since that means we can experiment and mix and match. Anfora has decided to stick with full glass pours and that's too bad. Less for us to try.

#5 Taking our glass away without asking. Ask. Always.

#6 Glassware more important than customers. Note to restaurateurs - dishes should be done in the back so we don't have to compete with glasses for the bartender's attention. A distinct lack of available glasses during our visit meant staff was busy polishing instead of interacting.

#7 Make sure your food matches the wine. Anfora has several spicy dishes that are not wine-friendly - spicy stuffed peppers that don't say so on the menu kill the palate and don't work with wine. Also suspect, spicy shortbread and curry egg salad.

Anfora has a ways to go before it makes the league of the city's best. But the owners may want to take a cue from their restaurant two doors over - the winelist is more interesting and diverse than Anfora. That's a surprise considering this is a winebar.

Terroir Lands in Tribeca

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Tribeca has gone from up-and-coming to plush and stuffy in a matter of two decades, so it was something of a surprise that Paul Grieco and Marco Canora decided to open an outpost of their hip winebar, Terroir Tribeca (24 Harrison Street) in the land of millionaires, Euro-bankers and moms pushing expensive strollers.

Terroir Trib Int lo.jpgTerroir 2 brings Grieco's signature "wine is cool" sensibility downtown with good effect. The room is well appointed, the bar long and easy to saddle up to, and of course the wine selection is top notch. While a lot of people seemed to be ordering the wine in tetra pak and we hear tell of Finger Lake riesling on tap, we were keen to explore the extensive by the glass list. One of our favorite trends was on hand - the 3 ounce pour - making it easy to try many, many wines (our weak spot). The winelist offers choices for everyone, from the adventurous to the old world connoisseur. We ventured to the wine geek side and were rewarded with excellent by the glass choices such as the Cotes du Jura Nature Berthet-Bondet 2007 ($14.25), La Mothe Pechigo ($11.50), and the Domaine de Montbourgeau 2001 ($16). Also recommended are the Hermann Wiemer Riesling ($13.50) and the nicely balanced Alfred Gratien NV Champagne ($18). Interesting red options by the glass include the Morgon from Domaine Louis Jadot ($11) and the 2007 Givry from Chofflet-Valdenaire ($15).

The entertaining winelist contains all the usual Grieco-isms including "Who Needs a Drink?" starring the Pope, Vladimir Putin and Us (because street fair season has started!) as well as longer pieces on celebrities, obscure and otherwise. Our favorite is the ode to Dutch footballer Johan Cruyff, a member of the International Football Hall of Fame. He had a way with words too and the list includes several famous quotes from him - our favorites being "Italians can't beat you but you can lose to them" and "If I wanted you to understand, I would explain it better."

Bevs Pork.jpgCanora complements the wine selection with hearty, damn-the-season meaty fare like sage leaves wrapped around sausage, oxtail risotto balls, meatball sandwiches and a few larger "Big Stuff" dishes thanks to kitchen space more than double the EVill location. We definitely dug the "Big Stuff" items - Bev's Famous Pork Blade Steak (right) and the Colorado lamb.

Tribeca has had its ups and downs in the past few years (Chanterelle closing, endless Bouley shuffling), so we can only hope that Terroir's arrival is a sign this neighborhood is going to loosen up and start enjoying life, the way it should.

Char No. 4

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There is something about cold weather that makes us think about brown spirits and a recent trip to Brooklyn gave us the opportunity to check out a place that is a must destination for brownies like us - Char No. 4 (196 Smith Street).

Char No 4.jpgChar No. 4 tags itself a whiskey bar and restaurant, and it certainly delivers on the brown liquor front. The list has 150+ American whiskeys as well as whiskeys from around the world, so we were excited to peruse the list and take advantage of the 1 oz pour options to taste some obscure stuff.

The long bar was inviting as we slipped in early one night. We started with a couple of cocktails, hoping to ease our way into the bourbons and single malts. Unfortunately, this proved a mistake - the Hound Dog, Ancient Age bourbon, fresh grapefruit juice, honey, mint and lime was initially refreshing but quickly became boring. Even worse was the pointless Kir Royale-esque Kentucky Royale, Henry McKenna bourbon, sparkling wine, cassis and orange zest. The heavy bourbon basically killed any effervescence in the sparkling wine and the drink was a complete failure.

Meanwhile, the bar got busy with people ordering, of all things, wine and beer. In a whiskey bar! Still we were determined to get into the ounce tastings, Bud-swigging neighbors be damned. We started with one of three tastings Char has created - the Belmont Park, which consisted of Four Roses single barrel bourbon, Jameson Irish Whiskey 18 year and a Laphroaig 7 year Signatory Single Malt scotch. At $25 for three one ounce pours, the tasting was a bit steep but nevertheless rewarding. The highlight was the delicious Jameson 18, surprising since Irish whiskey is not our thing. We then jumped to some 1 ounce tastes - the 1990 Lochnagar old malt cask 15 year old ($14, 1 ounce) was quite good as was the Blanton's silver, a rare find ($20, 1 ounce).

And the food? Decidedly meaty, with a Southern flare and actually pretty good. We enjoyed the house cut smoked bacon, the pork sausage with lentils and the lamb pastrami.

This being Brooklyn, the service was friendly at points, unprofessional at others and not enough staff was totally knowledgeable about the booze list. That's unfortunate in a place with this depth of great liquor but perhaps not so surprising when considering that many people just prefer beer to delving into the vagaries of 12 vs 15 year old single malts.


Revisiting Death and Company

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Few cocktail bars have the creative muscle and consistency that Death and Company (433 E. 6th Street) has had. It's often our weeknight 'go to' place - no we don't go out on Fridays and Saturdays - since it is large enough to get into as opposed to tiny PDT, which we also find less consistent. So when we are out carousing, we eagerly look forward to a few rounds of Death and Company cocktails. Unfortunately, on a recent visit, for the first time we were disappointed. Some really good cocktails were off the menu, and in their place, were some less successful newcomers.

First off, we have to have our Manhattan Transfer (Rittenhouse rye, Noilly Pratt dry vermouth, ramazotti, orange bitters) and it remains top notch. Unfortunately, other faves Myra Breckinridge and Grouse Rampant were off the menu. Our rather large party, momentarily derailed by a lack of obvious choices, decided to risk the My Oh My Ty, a wimpy version of the mai tai that was in no way memorable, and a Smoked Horchata (housemade horchata, Herradura silver, Crema de Mezcal), which was way too sweet. Another newcomer, La Vina, was just okay as was the intriguing Daisy Buchanan (chamomile-infused Old Overholt rye, Dolin Dry Vermouth, Aperol & Yellow Chartreuse), which was bone dry on the finish. And the further we delved into the list, the more disappointing it became.

Hopefully the cocktail issues were just a manifestation of the mid-winter blahs. But what did strike our fancy were the always surprisingly strong food choices. The pulled pork sliders were very good while the prosciutto and cheese flatbread was fantastic. So fantastic, that we ordered more.

Anyway, we recommend proceeding with a bit of caution right now, at least until D+C gets  some "spring" in its step.

Williamsburg's Rye

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We'd heard much about Williamsburg's Rye (247 S. 1st Street), which opened last year to a good bit of fanfare, but had been remiss in making a trip until recently. Finally we did and we're happy to report that advance notice was spot on - where many Brooklyn spots disappoint, Rye is the real deal with good food and great cocktails.

The cocktails skew classic and towards the brown liquors we at BoozyNYC love so. Let us count the reasons to love Rye: The Havemeyer (Rittenhouse rye, Fino Sherry, Carpano Antica and bitters) is a fine Manhattan-esque drink. The very good Classic Old Fashioned. The smoky Blood and Sand (black tea infused scotch, cherry heering, vermouth). The spot-on Sazerac. The terrifically spiced Hot Butternut Rum, a take on the classic using butternut squash butter in addition to aged rum and housemade falernum. However, both the Southside (gin, muddled cucumber, mint, fresh lime, soda water) and Stone Fence (Laird's Applejack, fresh apple cider, housemade ginger beer) were well made, if too sweet for our taste. All cocktails are $10.

The food lived up to advance billing for the most part - it stuck to your ribs, was tasty and worked pretty well with the drinks. The standouts were the grilled quail, which was the best quail we've had in a long time, and the house smoked sturgeon appetizer. The pork belly was merely good - nicely grilled edges but otherwise run of the mill - is NYC officially over pork belly or what? Less successful were the mac & cheese, which needed a bit more flavor not to mention creaminess, and the vaunted meatloaf sandwich - pretty good but completely upstaged by the crispy onions that crowned it. The meat, while moist, needed to amp up the flavor and the bread was superfluous.

The room is a somewhat endearing hodgepodge - the bar dating back to 1890 is majestically dark and imposing, providing a solid foundation from which to get hammered. But the rest of the space looks like a German restaurant circa 1900. The main room is full of large round tables situated too close to the bar, meaning that anyone standing at the busy bar are nearly pushed against patrons on the bar stools. The back area with a smattering of smaller tables gave off a bit of a Siberia vibe.

Rye is well worth a visit. It's priced right, the attitude is in check and there is real talent both behind the bar and in the kitchen.
 

The Drop-In - Hotel Delmano

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Hotel Delmano (82 Berry Street, Williamsburg) has been around awhile but it never quite made the A-list of NYC cocktail meccas. We had a good experience last year, and while the cocktail list was on the short side upon the opening, there was promise. Recently, we popped in to see what they are up to.

The cocktail list is much longer these days, there are more bartenders, too. Our first round consisted of the Rattlesnake (rye, absinthe, lemon, egg white, $13) and Autumn Leaves (olorso sherry, apricot, reposado tequila, $9). The Rattlesnake was fine though it didn't have much bite while Autumn Leaves didn't work at all. Smoke and Flowers (St. Germain, sherry, dry vermouth, Ardberg single malt scotch, $10), which has a romantic 1930s ring to it, was quite good while the 20th Century (lemon, white creme de cacao, Lillet, gin, $9) was good but a touch sweet. Lastly we couldn't resist the very good, smoky Devil's Garden (lime, agave nectar, mint, chipotle, cynar, and bitter infused mezcal, $12).

Overall, the cocktails are good - misses are likely unavoidable - with such an extensive list, but only the Devil's Garden truly impressed. The space is romantic and inviting, banquette seating cozy but service struck us as efficient but indifferent, which broke the spell a bit. While prices are generally attractive ($9-  13), we'd be hard pressed to give a reason for you to go out of your way to check in to the Hotel Delmano unless you're in the 'hood.
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